Notice for Stud Owner
Notice for Breeder
Breeding Rules
Bathing of show cats - the professional approach
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Notice for Stud Owner
1. The breeding male owner is entitled to decide his (her) cat's destiny as a stud:
- to give it for mating according to his (her) club's plans;
- to use his (her) stud for breeding with the queens belonging to him only;
- to neuter it or to give it to another owner.
2. The stud owner can either host cats for mating at his place or give his stud to the queens owners, having insured it in the appropriate organizations and having signed a contract with the receiving part on assuming material and moral responsibility for the stud in case of its loss (death, escape etc.).
3. The stud owner hosts queens for mating only upon the club breeding committee appointment (queens from other clubs are accepted only upon appointment re-recorded in their club).
4. The stud owner and the queen's owner sign the contract specifying conditions of the female's reception and terms of payment for mating:
- in cash after mating at a rate of a kitten's price;
- in cash on a contract basis;
- in cash after the litter birth at a rate of specified amount;
- by giving a kitten not younger than 8 weeks old on a "second choice" right (in some cases, e.g. if the stud is significantly higher in a class than a queen, the "first choice" right can be stipulated).
- other terms.
5. Absence of the record in the mating certificate on terms of compensation to the stud owner incapacitates the last for the right of applying to the Club Board in case of conflicts
6. The owner of a stud shall keep and use his stud properly;
- not to bring his male to the point of physical and nervous exhaustion, not to use a male that lost condition (exhaustion, shed, etc.);
- not to host more than four queens per month;
- not to host several queens all at once.
7. Coverage of expenses on a stud or a queen keeping during the mating at the second breeding partner can be made instantaneously at the first visit upon the contract or included in the final settlement.
8. Breeding papers (pedigree certificate) fee is paid by the stud owner to the queen owner at receiving of a kitten or paid directly to the club according to the owners' mutual agreement.
9. Mating of queens without mating permission or mating queens from other clubs without agreement eliminates receiving pedigree certificates of this litter's kittens at the club and can cause expulsion of the stud out of breeding.
10. The stud's owner can refuse to host the queen for mating in case of:
- absence of permission;
- absence of preliminary agreement;
- in case of ectoparasite or ear-mites, or other signs of disease at the queen;
- due to the cat's health status;
- in case of personal hostility between owners of breeding animals.
11. The stud owner should remember that the club does not provide his stud with queens for mating. The chairman of the breeding committee or the breed manager recommends studs to the queens' owners, specifying their positive and negative qualities and possible risk of their exertion in the given breeding. Top-show quality studs with parents of high breeding value and high-quality offspring have an advantage in breeding.
12. The stud owner has the right to add his cattery name to the names of the best kittens in the litter before the queen's cattery name.
13. In case of ineffective mating queens are hosted free of charge for a second mating during the next estrus. In case of the next ineffective mating the queen should pass veterinary examination.
14. The stud owner can return 50 % of mating price if the compensation was made in cash.
Notice for Breeder
1. The owner of a breeding queen (Breeder) is entitled to decide his (her) cat's destiny as a breeding queen:
- Mate it according to his (her) club's plans or with studs of his (her) cattery.
- Spay it or give it to another owner.
2. Breeder can open breeding cattery with the original name registered with an international organization according to his (her) membership. All the cats of one cattery are registered only with the club of Breeder membership. Double and separate registration of cattery's cats is prohibited.
3. For mating the queen with outside stud, Breeder is entitled to choose the stud according to his taste and ideas of the modern breeding conception, not breaking the breeding rules and taking all the risk of qualities of the offspring.
4. Breeder must comply with the club breeding regulation, keep and use his queen properly:
- not to allow more than THREE litters during two years;
- keep the limit of 6 kittens in one litter;
- not to use for breeding immature (younger than 12 months old) and exhausted cats;
5. Breeder is obliged to:
- get a permission for mating his queen with the selected stud;
- make an early agreement with the stud owner concerning availability of his stud;
- grant his queen's health certificate to the selected stud owner (by demand);
- pay timely and in full to the stud owner and to the club accounting department;
- draw up properly a report on mating specifying the way of payment;
- keep the stud owner updated concerning kittening, quality and quantity of received kittens or pathologic pregnancy;
- deliver kittens for litter examination;
- to provide the club with full details concerning the buyers of kittens. Mating permission is issued after providing details of the previous litter's sold kittens;
- pay timely annual and current club fees (not to allow debts in the annual and current club fees) and the registration of the litter;
- the buyer is entitled to purchase the kitten's pedigree, in exchange of the Certificate of the kitten's origin, not later than a year from the kitten's birth date.
Breeder interested in his queen gaining the breeding class must monitor the destiny and the results of exhibition activity of all the kittens of his cattery, providing the club's breeding committee with appropriate information in the form of diplomas or certificates photocopies (granting the originals of the documents).
6. In case of receiving proved negative results of the breeding, Breeder must withdraw the disqualified queen with further spaying (optionally). The pedigrees on the kittens of withdrawn cats are not issued.
7. In case of violation of Breeding Rules, Breeder can be fined, or his rights on issuing pedigrees can be revoked under the club breeding committee chairman's decision.
8. Breeder is entitled to participate in all club competitions for breeders and catteries.
Breeding Rules
The purpose of the club breeding program is pure breeding of cats and improvement of native breeds.
1. Breeding program management
1.1 Breeding program is run by the Club Breeding Committee (BC).
1.2 BC purposes are the following:
o Monitoring of cats breeds standards meeting;
o Breeding programs development and their analysis;
o Professional keeping of breeding books: the Main and the Experimental, pedigrees issue;
o The breeding work level control based on show results;
o Drawing up and announcing of studs annual lists;
o Development of particular breeding directions and unified form sheets.
1.3 The chairman of the BC conducts its activity.
1.4 The breeding committee is engaged in keeping the breeding books and registration of pedigrees.
2. Breeding availability
2.1. The estimation of cats breeding availability, their selection and matching are one of the basic breeding work activities and includes a complex estimation of cats on their exterior, origin and offspring.
2.2 Cats not younger than 12 months and not older than 8 years are allowed for breeding. The person responsible for the club breeding program (BP) has the right to reduce timing of the animals breeding activity according to their health state.
2.3 Breeding cats are males and females that:
o Meet the standard on the exterior requirements;
o Can leave offspring with excellent genetic background;
o Meet veterinary requirements;
o Are registered in breeding books.
2.4. The cat'sl exterior is estimated at shows by the expert-felinologist. At breeding availability qualifying the estimation received at the latest show in the open class is taken into account. This estimation is valid within 1 year, and then it should be confirmed at the show. The excellent show result in junior or novice class allows participation in breeding within 6 months. Cats with a title of Champion and higher, do not confirm show results. Studs should have at least excellent show results with CAC title, queens - at least excellent show results.
2.5 Quality of kittens is estimated on the basis of their show results in open class (see p. 2.4). However, the highest result received during 1 year is taken into consideration. At least half of the litter should have excellent show results.
2.6 The breeding cat should have harmonious constitution according to the standard and be healthy, without ecto- and endoparasites.
Cats that do not meet these requirements are not breeding cats. Each case of such cats mating is discussed at the club BC session. Kittens born in the result of such mating receive the Certificate of Origin.
Breeding availability restriction is imposed if a stud or a queen have following defects:
- Slight undershot up to 2 mm;
- Slight teeth system anomalies;
- Slight rings in the eyes color;
- Slight deviation from the standard color of eyes;
- Sagging backbone;
- Slight tail deformation;
- Disposition to strabismus.
In case of above-mentioned defects at the offspring of three different partners the breeding cat is disqualified and not permitted to breed.
2.7 Cats with following defects and faults are not permitted to breed:
- Strong undershot or overshot more than 2 mm;
- Strong anomalies in bite and teeth system;
- Obvious rings in eyes color;
- Birth anomalies of a skeleton (wolf mouth, polydactylia, dysplasia, adnations);
- Kinks and noticeable deformations of the tail, short-cut tail;
- Sustained strabismus, blindness, eyelids anomalies;
- Deafness;
- Mono- and cryptorchism;
- Cosmetic operations for elimination of defects and faults.
3. Breeding
3.1 To provide a healthy and enduring offspring, a queen can have not more than three litters in two years with a break of at least 4 months between labour and next mating. The minimal break between abortion, kitten death and next mating is 2 months long. Studs can generate not more than 25 litters per year with the break between breedings not less than a week.
The club is entitled to increase breaks depending on health and age of breeding cats.
3.2 Inbreeding is allowed if the person responsible for the club Breeding Program (BP) or the cattery breeder can prove the selection of the breeding cats, and "poor heredity" is surely excluded. That mating is considered efficient if kittens of standard type and colour are born.
3.3 The kittens born as a result of mating of stud and queen of common type breeds, but with various length of a coat, are:
- Persian and Exotic;
- Siamese and Balinese;
- Abyssinian and Somali.
Offspring of such breeding with intermediate variant of a coat length receive pedigrees with the colour code upon shorthair breed and a mark VAR.
3.4 Kittens of non-standard colours receive pedigrees with colour code, and index PER x, BRI x, etc. is added.
3.5 Mating of animals of different breeds, except the Oriental / Siamese and breeds listed in paragraph 3.3 is carried out only by the BC permission and with issuing Certificate of Origin and further experimental pedigrees (EPB).
3.6 The person responsible for the club Breeding Program (BP) gives a mating permission to the cat's owner. After the accomplished mating stud's owner signs the mating certificate, which is then handed over to the person responsible for BP in 10 days.
3.7 No later than the litter's birth date the queen's owner should inform the person responsible for BP of the quantity of born kittens and their colour and sex.
On the 45-50 day the kittens are examined (litter examination). The results of the examination are registered in the Litters Book and on the basis of this record and the mating certificate the Birth Certificates are issued.
3.8. Kittens are sold at the age of at least 8 weeks old. Kittens of one litter get l names beginning with the same alphabet letter according to the order of litters' registration in the club or cattery.
4. Breeding books
4.1 The purpose of keeping breeding books is accumulation of data on breeding cats.
4.2 The following breeding books are kept in the club: ?) the Main, b) the Experimental, ?) the Litter book.
4.3 Registration of kittens in the main books is based on the "Certificate of Origin", the forms are filled in with the readable handwriting or they are typewritten. Each kitten receives the number according to the Main Breeding Book or the Experimental Breeding Book.
4.4. Cats with the club "Royal..." MBB and other clubs pedigrees, belonging to recognized breeds and colours, upon the condition that not less than 4 ancestors lines are registered in the breeding book, are registered in the Main Breeding book.
4.5 Cats registered in the Experimental breeding book are:
- Matured cats and kittens with club "Royal..." and other clubs EBB pedigrees;
- Matured cats that have Birth Certificate and received excellent results in novice class;
- Matured cats of unknown origin that received excellent results twice at different judges;
- Kittens born with male and female registered in breeding books, but with partial pedigree, or as a result of mating of different breeds (so-called hybrids).
4.6 The following cats cannot be registered in breeding books:
- Those that do not meet the Rules requirements;
- If parents or one of the parents were prohibited to breed in the result of the shown genetic defects;
- If parents or one of them were prohibited to breed due to their owner's violation of the Rules.
5. Pedigrees
5.1 The MBB pedigree certifies of 4 full ancestor lines and is the only evidence of the cat's pure breed. Each cat registered in the Main Breeding Book has the MBB pedigree.
5.2 Cat with known origin, registered in the Experimental Breeding Book, receives the EBB pedigree.
5.3 Pedigrees are issued at the club and contain the data on cat - its name, breed, colour, sex, date of birth, and information about four ancestor lines with indication of their names, colours and titles, and also pedigree numbers of the first three ancestor lines. The correctness of the pedigree filling is assured with the BC chairman's seal. The information about the breeder is also indicated.
5.4 Names and titles of the ancestors and also literal marking of pedigrees are typewritten in English (without translation).
5.5 Pedigree is a document. Crossings and corrections made in it without the appropriate sanction of the BC secretariat make it voided. After pedigree issuing the kittens names cannot be changed.
6. Cattery
6.1 The breeding committee gives the permission to the breeder for the registration of his cattery with WCF in virtue of breeder's application.
6.2 For the permission to be received it is necessary to be an adult club member and pay fees regularly, to have at least one breeding cat and to attend a breeder-felinologist course. Queens with show results not lower than "excellent" and studs with CAC title and higher are listed in the cattery passport.
6.3 The cattery name comes under review as well. For this purpose the applicant notes three variants of cattery names in preference order. Registered ones or similar with the registered cattery names are not affirmed. While choosing the cattery name the secretariat review those in remitting order.
6.4 The cattery owner is entitled to select studs for mating with his queens by consulting with the person responsible for the club BP, and to give the cattery name to all kittens born with his queens.
6.5 The cattery owner should follow the sanitary-hygienic regulations of cats keeping and care of the breed's improvement.
6.6 The right on the cattery is lost in cases if:
- The owner did not paid fees in dates set by the club;
- Conditions in the cattery do not meet the veterinary-sanitary requirements;
- The cattery offspring show stable genetic defects;
- The cattery owner violates Breeding Rules.
7. Certificates of Origin.
7.1 Breeders receive certificates of origin in the club on every kitten after litter examination. Receiving Certificate of Origin, breeder assures the data listed in certificates with his signature.
7.2 Certificate of Origin contains essential data about kitten parents.
7.3 Certificate of Origin is eventually (but not more than in 1 year) replaced with the MBB or EBB pedigree.
7.4 If even one of the kitten's parents is not registered in the breeding book, the certificate of origin is changed for the pedigree only at the kitten's age of 10 months and its show results not lower than "excellent".
8. Violations and penalties.
8.1 Any cats owners' activities contradicting the Statements are considered as violations.
8.2 The person responsible for the club BP raises a question of the penalty at the session of BP section or club council. Penalties inure after their enactment at the club committee or general club members meeting.
8.3 Rules breakers can be punished by taking the following educational measures:
- Note of warning;
- Reprimand;
- Strict reprimand.
They can be combined with:
- Temporary interdiction on breeding of all or one of the cats of the breaker;
- Temporary interdiction on participation in shows on one or all cats of the breaker;
- Full interdiction on the cattery, and even exception from the club.
8.4 For the period of an interdiction on breeding all litters of the given queen or queens of the cattery do not receive pedigrees but receive Certificates of Origin.
While the interdictions are in force the punishment remain valid at the sale of the cat to another owner.
Authorized at the general meeting of the cat club founders on 18.06.1997.
The Chairman of the BC M. Savrasova
Bathing of show cats - the professional approach
Bathing is the most important aspect of many components of good grooming. Bathing promotes the fast loss of dead hair and growth of a new, alive fur. Only bathing really removes dirt and dust from the animal's fur, improves skin condition and cleans pores.
Cat's skin is very sensitive. Like people, cats have different skin types, depending on their breed, colour, length and structure of hair, heredity, etc. That is why, like a woman picks her own method of skin care, an individual method of washing should be found for every cat, and that will be its own method of fur and skin care.
Before show it is recommended to give your pet a bath twice a week - on Thursdays and Saturdays, if we speak about a two-day shows. However, only your own experience and eye will prompt you when you should do that. Some breeders wash their cats only on Fridays, or only in the evening before the day of the exhibition. But every experienced breeder can tell you that to bathe show cats at least once a week is as necessary as for people to wash up every morning.
It is essential to start as early as possible. If a kitten is used to weekly bathing, you will never have big problems later, when it grows to a matured animal with its specific smell and oily spots on the tail, at this very place where its sex gland is located. To wash, wash, wash, and to rinse, rinse, rinse! The faster you will understand the necessity of keeping your show cat absolutely clean the faster you will understand why the experts prefer such cats.
To begin with, prepare your cat for bathing. The first thing you should do is to cut your cat's claws short to reduce risk of getting scratched. Then brush your cat thoroughly with a metal comb trying to take out as much dead hair as possible. If you do not do it you will have a disastrous drying - you will not be able to untangle and to part the dead mat wool. Comb out or move away all the mats if the cat has ones. Check up underarms, abdomen area, pants, inguinal hollows, spots behind ears and a chin.
The next step is to clean ears well. As products usually used for this purpose contain liquid oil basis, the oily fur around ears will be washed out during the washing. However, to clean ears after bathing means to bring to nothing all the washing. You also can stop the cat's ears with little cotton balls and to drop mineral oil to your cat's eyes, though it is not necessary. Just try to avoid water and shampoo getting directly into the eyes and ears.
Prepare the place where you are going to bathe the cat. Take out from the bathroom all the glass vessels and things which the cat can reach and drop or damage. Dress accordingly. It is always good to have an assistant and to wash the cat together. Even if you have someone who can help you, a special bathing harness covering armpits and the chest and put on the cat can make the washing procedure much easier; it is safe for the cat, fixes it in a comfortable position, releases you from by-movement and let you wash out the cat's body well because it does not take up space on the skin. If you wash the cat alone, you just cannot arrange without bathing harness.
In advance bring to the bathroom everything you will need: an attachable plastic basin (with a hole in the bottom for water drain) where you can comfortably soap the cat, a deep plastic bowl or other container for rinsing, all cleaning agents, diluted vinegar, and towels. Arrange everything handily. Remember, that cat's body temperature is higher than a man's; it is about 39-39.5ºC, so adjust water temperature a bit hotter than you would use for your own bath.
And now, before we are going to describe how to wash the cat and what to use for it, let us learn: all that will be useless if you do not rinse the cat in a right way.
Rule #1. Rinsing should be done in a bowl. Use shower as less as you can, just to wash down the first foam, then put the cat into a deep bowl, keeping only a head above the water, and scoop all the body with water, making waves or moving the animal under water. Shower scares a cat with its noise and, as a matter of fact, just washes down the soup only from the coat's surface, never getting deep into it. Longhair cats actually cannot be rinsed with the shower; water does not reach hair roots and skin, soap and dirt remain inside, and all the work will go to smash.
Rule #2. Add some vinegar or lemon juice to the water for each rinsing. It will help to dissolve and neutralize the washing agent faster and also tincture silky shine and fresh flavour to the hair. Do not come it too strong, add about one or two tablespoons on 8-10 litres of water. The flavour should be scarcely felt.
Rule #3. It is essential to rinse between soaping, fully changing water in the bowl not less than 3 or 5 times. If it seems to you that the cat is rinsed quite well already, do it once more! The final rinsing should be done not less than in five waters! And one more hint: choose vinegar for the current rinsing but add some lemon juice for the final one. You can buy a liquid concentrate of lemon juice (pure, natural, sugar-free) in a drugstore; it gives excellent results.
Now let us understand the washing cycle and what to use for it.
Step 1. The first soaping aims to wash out dirt and natural excretions on the most crucial spots - behind ears, under the tail, on paws, on abdomen area, pans and on the upper part of the tail were the sex gland is located. That is why heavy-duty detergents are used. Do not be surprised - you need a soap paste that is used for overalls presoak (GOOP) or paste that blue-collar workers use for washing off the hands (HAND CLEANER). The manufacturers should be well known by the good quality of other kinds of similar products made by them (usually they also produce washing powders, sanitary means and so on). These pastes are quite thick and sticky and they should be diluted with water before drawing on crucial spots.
Step 2. We soap the cat all over, except the head, using a branded dishwashing liquid (Palmolive, Down, Ivory, etc.) - you will know only experimentally which one fits you better.
Note: A special high-efficiency shampoo for animals, relating to SUPER SCRUB group can be used instead of detergents described in paragraphs 1 and 2. There should be an inscription on the shampoo's package that the shampoo is for stud tail grease removing.
Step 3. Two- or three-fold soaping with the basic, or the main shampoo. Thus a special tearless shampoo for kittens and puppies is used for washing a neb. If you do not have it, just use a tearless shampoo for children. For washing the rest of the body, pick a high-quality shampoo for cats that will take the best effect. Which shampoo to use - your experience will tell you. The matter is, as I already have spoken, that all the cats are different, and the shampoo for them is picked individually. As the most common advice I can tell you one thing - it should be of a high quality, and if you cannot find anything suitable, use an expensive protein shampoo for normal women's hair produced by a well-known firm.
Step 4. Shampoo - color enhancer. It is not a secret that there are special shampoos for black, white, red, etc. cats. However I advise you to use only those shampoos that only enhance the natural colour of the animal, but do not colour the coat synthetically. First of all, the colouring is prohibited by show rules, and the expert can disqualify any unnaturally bright animal. Second, the obtained result can be rather far from desired. And never carry out experiments the day before the show - it can be too late!
Step 5. Using of conditioner. Not all the cats need this step. Some of them in any case have oily, shiny coat with a silky structure, and a conditioner can only box up. Here again only your own experience will prompt you whether to use a conditioner or not.
Remember that the physical condition of a cat can require repeating once again any of the procedures described. This article is not dogma, you yourself should find your formula of bathing, and it will not be the same for all of your cats. And certainly, you have not forgotten that every soaping alternates the full scooping, as it is described above in the paragraph about cats rinsing. It is useless to spend much money on expensive shampoos if you are too lazy to change water for rinsing - there will be no good results!
Some general remarks: if you do not have a ten-year experience of washing cats - do not try to use ordinary, not a tearless shampoo for cats' neb washing. The swollen eyes of supersensitive Persians will make the success at the exhibition unachievable. If you are a dog groomer you can consider that you know nothing about cats' washing. Your background will only do harm for you. Start from scratch, and you will not be sorry. Cats and dogs differ too much from each other! And cats are too gentle and sensitive creatures, so your self-assurance can be too costly.
As to procedures of drying, trimming, combing, final grooming and daily care of a show cat - that is a subject for special articles.
D. Bohem, ASSOLUX international all-breeds judge
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